We went to Meghalaya at the very peak of the monsoon. Most people tell you not to. We went anyway, the two of us, and we had a lot of fun.
This is not a full diary. It is a handful of photos and the places behind them, for anyone wondering if the rainy season is worth it.
Why Meghalaya is so wet
Meghalaya is a high plateau. Its southern edge drops sharply to the plains of Bangladesh. Rain clouds hit that wall and empty out.
That is why Sohra and Mawsynram rank among the wettest places on earth. Shillong gets about 400 mm of rain in each of June and July. Sohra gets close to 3,000 mm in July alone.
Sohra still holds a world record for one month. In July 1861 it got about 9,300 mm of rain.
On the road
In the rains, everything along the road is green.
Almost every trip starts in Guwahati. Shillong is about 100 km away, roughly three hours by road. Sohra is about two hours further south.
A day by the pool
We broke the trip with a slow day at Bameri Resort, and the sky cleared for the pool.
Meghalaya's Dzukou
People call it Meghalaya's Dzukou, after the valley in Nagaland. Its proper name is the Markham and Remkhla Valley, known locally as the Laitmurok viewpoint, in the Khasi Hills west of Shillong.
In the monsoon the hills roll away in soft green waves, one behind the other. We took this one with an umbrella in hand.
The real Dzukou is a high valley on the border of Nagaland and Manipur. It is known for its rolling meadows and its treks. Markham has the same look of rolling green hills.
The district lists Markham for its rolling hills, misty mornings and grazing land. The valley lies in Markham village, and the Remkhla viewpoint in Mawkyllei. Both are reached by road, off the highway towards Nongstoin.
A café at Cherrapunji
At Cherrapunji we stopped at Cafe Cherrapunji, which has a walking trail. It was misty when we were there.
The town's real name is Sohra. British officials in the 19th century heard it as Cherra, and "punji" was added later. The name has now officially gone back to Sohra.
Sohra sits on a plateau at about 1,430 metres. In the rains it is often in cloud, and the views come and go.
Waterfalls at full strength
This is the real reason to go in the monsoon. The waterfalls are at their fullest.
Around Sohra the plateau ends in tall cliffs, so the falls are tall too. Nohkalikai drops about 340 metres, the tallest plunge waterfall in India. Seven Sisters spreads across a whole cliff face in July and August.
There is a catch. On a cloudy day you may hear a waterfall and see only white. Keep a spare day, and go back when the cloud lifts.
Good things to do on a wet day
Some of Meghalaya's best sights do not need a clear sky.
Mawsmai cave, near Sohra, is lit and has a proper floor. It is the easy cave, with two tight squeezes. It makes a good stop when the viewpoints are in cloud.
The sacred grove at Mawphlang is a forest the Khasi have guarded by custom for centuries. Nothing may leave it, not even a leaf. A guide from the village walks you through.
In July, Behdienkhlam fills the streets of Jowai. It is the big Jaintia festival, and a monsoon festival at that. In 2026 it ran from 6 to 9 July.
What the rain takes away
The monsoon gives you green hills and huge falls. It also costs you a few things.
What to pack
Who should go, and who should wait
The monsoon suits people who like rain and do not mind a changed plan. It is harder with young children, or with anyone unsteady on their feet. Wet stone, long drives and road delays add up.
If you want the falls and the views, aim for September to early November. The falls are still full, and the cloud has begun to lift. The driest months, from November to February, give the clearest skies.
Should you go in the monsoon?
If you love green hills, full waterfalls and moody skies, and you do not mind getting wet, yes. Pack for rain, keep your plans loose, and let the weather decide some of the days.
Our best time to visit Meghalaya guide explains what each month is like, and the monsoon and my brand-new Nikes is a lesson in what not to wear.
For the whole state, start with our Meghalaya travel guide and things to do in Meghalaya. Our food guide covers what to eat on a rainy day, and what a Meghalaya trip costs helps with the budget. All our trips are on the Meghalaya page.
If you want to plan your own trip in the rain, tell us on Plan My Trip and we will build it around the weather.
About the writer
Shrawani
Shrawani is an avid traveller. She writes about the trips she takes, in India and abroad.
